Misyelle Now on Elevenia!

Mau dapetin tas misyelle dengan harga miring? Sekarang Misyelle udah ada di Elevenia loh! Check out tiap hari ya, karena pastinya bakal ada produk produk dengan harga miring yang sayang banget kalau dilewatkan. So, tunggu apalagi? Yuk buruan belanja!

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Clutch Purse with Antique Pin Closure

Materials

• 1/2 yard of green floral for clutch body and tab
• 1/2 yard of coordinating print for lining
• 1/2 yard of canvas for interlining
• 1/2 yard of 13-inch-wide ultra heavyweight interfacing
• 1 1/4 inches of 3/4-inch-wide sew-on hook-and-loop tape
• Fabric marker
• Pressing ham (optional)

Finished clutch: 11 3/4 x 7 1/2 inches

Quantities are for 44/45-inch-wide, 100% cotton fabrics. All measurements include a 1/2-inch seam allowance. Sew with right sides together unless otherwise stated.

Cut the Fabrics

To make the best use of your fabrics, cut the pieces in the order that follows. The patterns are on pattern below. Note: When cutting your clutch body and tab pieces (A, B, and D), you may wish to align the patterns carefully to match up the fabric motifs.

Pattern Sheet

From green floral, cut:

• 1 each of patterns A, B, and D

From coordinating print, cut:

• 1 each of patterns A, B, and D

From canvas, cut:

• 1 each of patterns A, B, and D

From ultraheavyweight interfacing, cut:

• 2 of Pattern C

1. Referring to Diagram 1, below, center an interfacing C piece atop the wrong side of the canvas A piece, leaving 1/2 inch of canvas exposed around the outer edges; pin. Note: The interfacing pieces are cut smaller than the canvas pieces to reduce bulk in the seam allowances and to make it easier to shape the sides of the clutch.

2. Sew 1/4 inch inside the edges of the interfacing to make a front interfacing unit.

3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 to sew the remaining interfacing C piece atop the wrong side of the canvas B piece to make a back interfacing unit.

4. Referring to Diagram 2, align the front interfacing unit, canvas side down, atop the wrong side of the green floral A piece; pin. Machine-baste 1/4 inch from the outer edges to make the clutch front.

5. Repeat Step 4 to sew the back interfacing unit atop the wrong side of the green floral B piece to make the clutch back.

The tab on this clutch serves as both a handle on the clutch back side and as a closure.

1. Layer the canvas D piece on the wrong side of the green floral D piece; baste 1/4 inch from the outer edge.

2. With right sides together, layer the green floral D piece and the lining D piece. Backstitching at the beginning and end, sew together the long edges using a 1/2-inch seam to make the tab; leave the short edges open for turning (see Diagram 3).

3. Trim the seam allowances to 1/8 inch. Turn the tab right side out by pulling the narrow end through the wide end; press.

4. Tuck 1/2 inch of the wide end inside the tab; press. Tuck 3/8 inch of the narrow end inside (see Diagram 4); press. Topstitch around the tab, 1/4 inch from the outer edge.

5. Referring to Diagram 5, center and sew the hook portion of the hook-and-loop tape to the tab's lining side, 1/4 inch from the wide end.

6. Fold the clutch back in half lengthwise and finger-press a crease for a placement line. Unfold the clutch back.

7. Referring to Diagram 6, mark a placement line 3 1/2 inches above the lower edge of the clutch back on the right side. With right sides together, center the narrow end of the tab over the center crease just below the marked placement line. Backstitching at the beginning and end, edgestitch across the narrow end, then again 1/2 inch from the edgestitching.

8. Referring to Diagram 7, fold the tab over the clutch back. With 1 inch of the tab extending toward the bottom of the bag, fold the tab back on itself and up, centering it over the center crease. Press and pin. The wide edge of the tab will extend past the upper edge.

Mark and sew across the tab 5 1/2 inches above the bottom folded edge, backstitching at each edge to make a handle on the clutch back; press.

1. Fold the clutch front in half widthwise and finger-press a crease for a placement line. Unfold the clutch front.

2. Mark a placement line on the clutch front 5 inches below the upper edge at the center fold (see Diagram 8). Center and edgestitch the loop portion of the hook-and-loop tape to the clutch front's right side, just below the marked line.

3. With right sides together, align the side and lower edges of the clutch front and clutch back; pin. Using a 1/2-inch seam allowance, sew together along the side and lower edges (see Diagram 9).

4. Trim the seam allowance around the bottom curves to 1/4 inch. Using a pressing ham, press the entire seam open. Turn right side out; press. Note: Pressing the seam open will help you to get a nice finished look around the curves at the clutch bottom. 

5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 with the lining A and B pieces to make the clutch lining.

6. With the right side of the clutch body facing out and the wrong side of the clutch lining facing out, place the clutch body inside the clutch lining, aligning the side seams (see Diagram 10). Pin together the raw edges, making sure that the tab is tucked in between the clutch body and lining, out of the way.

Using a 1/2-inch seam allowance, sew together open the raw edges, leaving a 5-inch opening for turning in the center front.

7. Trim the seam allowance across the points of the clutch back, making sure not to clip into the stitching. Referring to Diagram 11, clip into the seam allowance just to the stitching line at the corners where the bag flap extends from the clutch back. Clip into the seam allowance at the center top of the clutch back.

8. Turn the clutch right side out through the 5-inch opening. Push the lining down inside the clutch, aligning the side seams; press the upper edges. To close the opening, topstitch 1/8-inch from the open edges of the clutch (see Diagram 12).

1. On one side, match up the side seams on the clutch body with the lining; pin. With the clutch body facing up, start at the top finished edge on the side seam and stitch in the ditch 3 1/2 inches down (see Diagram 13). Repeat on the other side of the clutch body.

2. To give the clutch shape, fold a 1-1/4-inch angled pleat into one side seam, beginning at the top and tapering the pleat to end 3 1/2 inches down (see Diagram 14). Press the folds in place. Repeat on the remaining side seam. Note: The absence of ultraheavyweight interfacing in the area you're pleating should enable you to make crisp folds.

3. Attach a vintage pin onto the right side of the tab's wide end, covering the stitching where the hook-and-loop tape was sewn.

4. Fold the clutch back over the clutch front, aligning the hook-and-loop closures, to complete the clutch.

Autumn SALE

• Autumn best offer!!

  Dapatkan diskon 20% untuk semua barang!! Berlaku khusus pembelian online saja

  
  

  Grab it fast sista ♡♡♡

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Happy Vesak Day

selamat hari raya Waisak untuk semua Misyellelovers yang merayakan.

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Misyelle BIP on SALE

Discount up to 30% off at Misyelle BIP

Di long weekend ini, yuk ajak teman - teman atau keluargmu ke Misyelle BIP, karena sampai tanggal 17 Mei 2015 bakalan ada promo discount di Misyelle BIP!

So, buruan ke Misyelle BIP

Misyelle Bandung Indah Plaza

Lantai 2

MSY Store on SALE

Sister brand kita, yaitu MSY Store yang letaknya di lantai 1 (depan Matahari dept. Store), lagi ngadain promo diskon dan special price. Yuk buruan ke sini, karena promonya cuma sampai 21 April aja loh :)

MSY Store BIP

BIP Lantai 1

depan Matahari dept. Store

Misyelle Now Open at King's Shopping Center

We're proudly present :

Misyelle Now Open at King's Shopping Center (ex Matahari Dept Store)

Lantai 2

Yuk mampir ke Misyelle King's!

Dan dapatkan diskon menarik khusus Misyelle King's

DIY CHAIN COLLAR NECKLACE

Peter Pan collars are everywhere right now and with some gold chain you can easily make a DIY chain collar necklace for yourself. I (Ali) used gold chain but you can use whatever size chain you have and/or mix and match different metals to create different looks.

Step 1: Cut two pieces of chain the length you would like your necklace. Mine was 18 inches so each piece was 9 inches long. Add a jump ring to one end of each chain to join them together. This will become the middle of your necklace.

Step 2: Attach another jump ring on one of the chain links about 4-5 inches from the end. Do the same for the other side.

Step 3: Cut two more pieces of chain (these will be the collar pieces to your necklace) and attach on the the middle jump ring and on the two jump rings you just added in the previous step.

Step 4: Cut 4 individual pieces of chain with each piece gradually longer the the other. For example the first piece I cut was 4.75 inches, the next was about 5.25 inches, the next was 5.75 inches, and then the last was 6.25 inches. Attach them to two new jump rings with the shortest piece on top and the longest piece on bottom. Repeat this step for the other side.

Step 5: Attach both sets of 4 to your necklace by attaching to the middle jump ring and the outside ring. Just make sure you attach it between the two chains on the necklace.

Step 6: Finish the necklace by attaching a 2.5 inch chain extender and clasp to the necklace ends.

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DIY GEOMETRIC DIAMOND NECKLACE

Hi there, sorry for the missed post yesterday! It's been a long day of studying for exams. Anyway, today I'd like to share a little DIY project I made over the weekend. I really love the geometric trend going on, and it inspired me to make this geometric diamond necklace. It was super easy and fun to do, cost almost nothing and has already brought me compliments. I hope you'll enjoy it!

You need:

- a chain necklace and a jumpring

- a paintbrush and paint (No paint? Nail polish works fine too!)

- a small scrap piece of leather (genuine or synthethic), approx. 1.5" x 1.5"

- a diamond shape

- tape and scissors

- an awl or a needle

1. Draw the outline of the diamond shape on the piece of leather. Cut the shape out of the leather with scissors, making sure to cut just inside the pen marks so you don't have any lines showing.

2. Draw the inner lines.

3. Cover with tape, leaving one area exposed.

4. Paint the exposed area. Let dry.

5. When it's completely dry, slowly remove the tape. 

6. Repeat steps 3, 4, 5 until you have painted the whole shape.

7. Make a tiny hole at the top of the pendant, using an awl or a needle. Spread open the jump ring and pass one end through the hole in the pendant. Put a necklace chain inside the jump ring before pinching it closed.

8. Voilà, you're done! Wear it proudly.

I hope you will enjoy making your own geometric diamond necklace, in any colors you fancy! Thanks for stopping by, and have a lovely day!

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DIY : Fold-Over Framed Clutch

Try This: Fold-Over Framed Clutch

Mark this down as yet another project inspired by a gold and glittery outfit for Alt.  This time, a gold sequined blazer, which calls for a decidedly more subdued handbag.  I thought a nice winter white clutch would be the perfect pairing. 

Read on for the full tutorial.



Materials: 1/4 yard of Heavyweight Fabric*, Top Channel Purse Frame**, Magnetic Snap, Fabric Glue

*I found this gorgeous, almost tapestry-like Waverly upholstery-weight fabric from JoAnn (similar here). I decided to use the same fabric for both my shell and lining.  If you decide to use a lighter-weight fabric for your lining, you'll likely want to add in some interfacing to give the bag some additional stability.  Just cut the interfacing to the same size as all other pieces, and double it up with the shell pieces for each of the steps below. 

**Most purse frames you come across have side channels, but you can find similar top channel frames here, here, here, and here.  I picked up my charming little frame on my recent trip to Japan.


ONE:  Begin by cutting 4 identical pieces -- 2 for the shell, 2 for the lining.  My frame is approximately 7.5" wide, so my pieces were each 13" x 10".  To determine the correct width for your fabric cuts, take the width of your purse frame and add 2.5" (e.g. a 6" frame would call for a cut of fabric 13" x 8.5").  Then, cut the top corners off at an angle with the endpoints 1" and 3" from the corner.  These distances will likely also work for your frame, but adjust the 3" as appropriate for the height of your frame.


TWO: On only one cut of your shell fabric, install the magnetic snap closure.  Install the male end 2" from the top center and the female end 4" from the bottom center as shown.  Stabilize the back of each with a small square of heavy interfacing.


THREE: With right sides facing (i.e. magnetic snap facing inward), sew the two shell pieces together as shown.  Repeat with the lining fabric, but leave a gap somewhere in your seaming about 2" long so that you can pull the bag through later.

  
FOUR: To give the bag some fullness, box each of the bottom two corners.  To do this, form a triangle by matching the side seam with the bottom seam.  Pin into place, and sew perpendicular to the side/bottom seaming approximately 3/4" from the triangle tip.  Trim the excess fabric.  Repeat on the lining. 



FIVE: Turn the shell right-side-out, and put it inside of the lining.  Pin together along the top edges.  Stitch each set of top flaps together.  On each flap, you'll want to begin and end your needle precisely where you began and ended your stitches in Step Three (i.e. the black dots).  This isn't unlike how you would stitch around the top edge for your standard tote bag, there are just a few more angles to contend with. 


SIX: Pull the whole bag through the the hole you left in the lining.  Top stitch the hole shut, and tuck the lining into the shell.


SEVEN (optional): If you have a particularly voluminous fabric, you might want to top stitch along the edge of each opening flap.


EIGHT: Apply a scant bead of glue to the inside of the frame and the edge of each opening flap.  If you apply too much, it will squish out in the next step and ruin your purse.  Allow to get tacky according to the directions for your particular fabric glue. I highly recommend Gutermann glue, which can be hard to find in the U.S. but is available from some Etsy sellers.


NINE: Carefully tuck the edges of the purse into the purse frame. If your fabric is particularly thick, you might want to use something like a craft knife to help you push the edges in.  Give the glue a little time to set, and you're ready to go!

What do you think?  A nice understated companion for an over-the-top sequined blazer?










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